The Perhentian Islands are a small group of beautiful, coral-fringed islands off the coast of northeastern Malaysia in the state of Terengganu, not far from the Thai border.
When to goDue to the eastern monsoon, the season in the Perhentians (and all other east coast islands) is effectively limited to the period between the beginning of March until late October. Outside this period the seas can be very rough with currents that make swimming dangerous and most (though not all) accommodation options are closed. Do not believe the travel-agents when they claim the accommodations are open. Even if they will provide a room, restaurants and all shops (i.e. no place to get water, food, sunscreen etc.) are closed in off-season. If the restaurant is open, food choices will be very limited and over-priced.
When going during off-season be aware that there will be literally no one there but you and maybe a handful of locals.
From the main ferry terminal at Kuala Besut there are effectively two options:
Speed boats - usually small fibreglass boats with two or three outboards which take 30-45 minutes, charge RM70/person for to and fro and RM40/person for one way, and depart according to demand (4-5 times a day). Some are enclosed, some have a fabric roof, some are completely open. If the sea is choppy expect a bumpy ride and in the case of the latter two types expect to get very wet. There is no safe space for electronics, you might want to wrap anything that will not survive being wet in plastic beforehand.
Slow boats - usually wooden fishing boats with some seats on the deck which take 2-3 times as long as the speedboats, only available if you book in advance at RM300/boat/way. Maximum 12 pax per boat. It seems that their services have been discontinued though.
All ferries take their passengers directly to their destination, wherever it may be on the islands. Passengers may be charged an extra RM2 to get a small boat from the ferry to the beach at Long Beach. Elsewhere, jetties are springing up and enable people to get off the ferry without the need for an additional small boat ride to shore and without getting their feet wet.
All travellers to the islands must pay a marine park conservation charge of RM5, valid for the length of their stay.
Speed boats - usually small fibreglass boats with two or three outboards which take 30-45 minutes, charge RM70/person for to and fro and RM40/person for one way, and depart according to demand (4-5 times a day). Some are enclosed, some have a fabric roof, some are completely open. If the sea is choppy expect a bumpy ride and in the case of the latter two types expect to get very wet. There is no safe space for electronics, you might want to wrap anything that will not survive being wet in plastic beforehand.
Slow boats - usually wooden fishing boats with some seats on the deck which take 2-3 times as long as the speedboats, only available if you book in advance at RM300/boat/way. Maximum 12 pax per boat. It seems that their services have been discontinued though.
All ferries take their passengers directly to their destination, wherever it may be on the islands. Passengers may be charged an extra RM2 to get a small boat from the ferry to the beach at Long Beach. Elsewhere, jetties are springing up and enable people to get off the ferry without the need for an additional small boat ride to shore and without getting their feet wet.
All travellers to the islands must pay a marine park conservation charge of RM5, valid for the length of their stay.
NOTE!
Mosquitoes. Bring repellent and consider burning a mosquito coil.
Tap water is generally not safe to drink. Bottled water is widely available at a fairly expensive RM 3-5 per 1.5L bottle.
The sun can be extremely hot and burning in the afternoons till early evenings. Ocean conservationists do not encourage sunscreen to be in contact with the sea water as it ruins the corals!
Tap water is generally not safe to drink. Bottled water is widely available at a fairly expensive RM 3-5 per 1.5L bottle.
The sun can be extremely hot and burning in the afternoons till early evenings. Ocean conservationists do not encourage sunscreen to be in contact with the sea water as it ruins the corals!
Electricity is only provided at night. It seems most places that have outages on Besar are only limited to 3-hour blackouts during the late afternoon (4-7pm, a good time to snorkel or jungle trek).
Accommodation
There is very little luxury accommodation on the islands, with the top of the line being air-conditioned chalets (RM100-200) and the bottom being a bunk in a longhouse (RM10 and up). Discounts are usually negotiable in the off season (although most resorts are closed), for weekdays, for longer stays, if you show up late and they have room... but the better places can get snapped up fast, especially on weekends and holidays, so book in advance (easily arranged in Kuala Besut) or arrive early.
The most popular backpacker destination is Pasir Panjang (Long Beach) on the eastern coast of Kecil, where a bed in a longhouse can go for as little as RM20. More private "chalets" with fan, electricity and bathroom start at RM50.
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